Repair / Problems / Controls and cables / Speedometer cable is noisy or broken

Controls and cables

Speedometer cable is noisy or broken

OK to rideAlso called: speedo needle jumps, speedo whine, speedometer cable snapped, speedo needle stuck at zero

Speedometer drive on the outside of the hub
Speedometer drive on the outside of the hub
Front hub with the speedometer cable running to the drive
Front hub with the speedometer cable running to the drive
Speedometer drive on the front hub: a dry drive is noisy
Speedometer drive on the front hub: a dry drive is noisy
Speedometer drive inside the hub: worn gears or dry drive make noise
Speedometer drive inside the hub: worn gears or dry drive make noise

On bikes with a mechanical speedometer, a spinning inner cable runs from a small drive at the front wheel hub to the instrument. A dry cable makes the needle flicker and whine. A broken cable leaves the needle at zero and the odometer stops. Bikes with an electronic speed sensor have no cable: see Speedometer or odometer does not work.

Is it safe to ride?

Yes, with care. You cannot see your speed, and in many places a working speedometer is a legal requirement. Fix it soon.

Quick checks first

  • Is there a cable from the front hub to the instrument? (If not, the bike uses a sensor.)
  • Is the cable connected at both ends?
  • Is the cable pulled tight or kinked when the bars are turned?
  • Was the front wheel removed recently?
  • The cable drive can sit on the outside of the hub, as on most disc brake bikes, or inside the brake plate, as on many drum hubs. Refit it in the same position, with its ear or tabs engaged, or its housing spins. See Speedometer drive.

Diagnose it step by step

1Is the cable connected firmly at both ends?

  • No: reconnect it, engaging the square or slotted drive. Test.
  • Yes: go to step 2.

2Disconnect the top end. Lift the front wheel and turn it forward. Does the inner cable tip turn?

  • Yes: the cable and hub drive work. A dead needle means an instrument fault: Speedometer or odometer does not work. A flickering needle with a turning cable: go to step 4.
  • No: go to step 3.

3Pull the inner cable out from the top. Is it in two pieces?

4Is the needle flickering or the cable whining? Look at the route: tight bends, kinks, pulled at full lock?

  • Yes: reroute or replace the cable. A kink makes the inner bind and snap.
  • No: grease the inner cable lightly (not near the top end) and the hub drive (Lubricate control cables). If it still flickers, replace the cable.

5Noise comes from the hub area, not the cable?

Causes, most likely first

Cause How to confirm Fix
Dry cable Flicker or whine, cable turns Grease or replace
Snapped inner cable Inner comes out in two pieces Replace cable
Kinked or misrouted cable Tight bend, worse at full lock Reroute or replace
Hub drive broken or not engaged Drive does not turn with wheel Refit or replace drive
Instrument fault Cable turns, needle dead Speedo dead

Related problems

Sources
  • K-Light 125 manual, PDF pages 140, 135
  • MAVCC Motorcycle Mechanic, PDF page 410
  • Unit 2 The Motorcycle, PDF page 18

Values marked K-Light 125 are for that reference bike. Use your own bike's manual for its values. Text CC BY-SA 4.0, Transitions Lab.