Dirt and rust can lock an axle in its hole. Penetrating oil helps, but some axles need to be tapped out. Protect the thread, and use a soft metal drift.
Safety
- Support the bike so it cannot fall when the wheel comes free. Use a stand that is stable.
- Wear eye protection. Hammered metal can chip.
- Never hammer on a bare thread or on a brake disc.
You need
- Penetrating oil, a hammer, a brass rod about the size of the axle, spanners, a clean cloth.
Steps
- Remove the nut, so that the whole thread is clear. Clean the thread.
- Spray penetrating oil on both ends of the axle and where it passes through the hub or arm. Wait. Spray again.
- Thread the nut back on at least five or six turns. It must cover the thread fully, so the hammer blow lands on the nut and not on the thread.
- Hit the nut gently and squarely. Do not hit at an angle. Do not hit hard enough to damage the nut.
- If the axle moves, keep tapping. If it does not, oil it again and wait. Work it back and forth: Free a rusted or glued part by working it back and forth.
- When the axle has moved enough, take the nut off. Put the end of the brass rod on the axle end and hammer the other end of the rod to push the axle through.
- Re-centre the rod on the axle after each blow. A rod bent a little still works, but replace it when it is badly bent.
- Clean the axle and the hole. Refit with a thin coat of grease or anti-seize so it comes out easily next time: Anti-seize compound.
Check your work
- The axle is straight and the thread is not damaged.
- The nut spins on freely by hand.
If it did not fix the problem
- The axle does not move after oil and patient tapping: have a workshop press it out. Do not use a torch on an aluminium hub.
- See Remove and refit the rear wheel and Remove and refit the front wheel.