Repair / Problems / Suspension / Oil leaking from a fork leg

Suspension

Oil leaking from a fork leg

Ride with careAlso called: leaking fork seal, oily fork tube, fork oil on the brake

Removing a fork seal
Removing a fork seal
Prising out a fork seal with a screwdriver
Prising out a fork seal with a screwdriver
Rubber fork gaiters: they keep grit off the stanchion and seal
Rubber fork gaiters: they keep grit off the stanchion and seal
Seal retaining circlip at the top of a fork leg
Seal retaining circlip at the top of a fork leg
Fork leg held in a vice for work on the damper rod
Fork leg held in a vice for work on the damper rod

You see an oily ring on the shiny fork tube (stanchion) after riding, oil running down the outside of the fork leg, or oily dirt round the dust seal. The oil seal at the top of the outer leg is letting fork oil past. Common causes are grit under the seal lip, a worn or hardened seal, a pitted or scratched tube, or a bent tube. As oil escapes, the fork loses damping and starts to bounce and bottom out.

Is it safe to ride?

Ride with care if it is a light film and the brake is clean. If oil has reached the brake disc, pads or caliper, do not ride: the brake can stop working. Clean the disc and replace oily pads first.

Quick checks first

  • Look at the brake disc and caliper on the leaking side: oily?
  • Wipe the tubes clean, pump the forks with the brake on, and see which leg leaves a fresh oil ring.
  • Look at the tube for rust spots, chips or scratches.
  • Is the oil coming from the seal, or from the bottom bolt or the cap at the top?
  • Dents or rough patches on a fork tube wear out new seals. Gaiters over the tubes keep dirt off the seals.

Diagnose it step by step

1Is there oil on the brake disc, pads or caliper?

  • Yes: do not ride. Clean the disc with brake cleaner and fit new pads with Replace disc brake pads, after fixing the leak.
  • No: go to step 2.

2Where does the oil come from?

  • From the seal at the top of the outer leg: go to step 3.
  • From the bolt at the bottom of the leg: the sealing washer has failed. Workshop job, done with Replace fork oil and seals.
  • From the top cap: a cap O-ring has failed or the cap is loose. Workshop.

3Is the tube pitted, chipped, scratched or bent where it passes through the seal?

4Is this a new leak on a tube in good condition?

  • Yes: try Clean fork seals. Grit under the lip is a common cause.
  • No (it has leaked for a long time or came back after cleaning): go to step 5.

5Has the fork lost a lot of oil (bottoms out, bouncy, one leg feels different)?

  • Yes: both legs need new seals and fresh oil of the exact grade and amount. Replace fork oil and seals.
  • No: the seal is worn. Same repair. Ask for both legs at once.

6Is the drained oil milky?

  • Yes (the workshop will see this): water has got in past the seals. Replace seals and oil and check the dust seals.

Causes, most likely first

Cause How to confirm Fix
Grit under seal lip New leak, tube good Clean fork seals
Worn or hard seal Leak returns after cleaning Replace fork oil and seals
Pitted or scratched tube Rust spots, chips in seal area Replace tube and seals
Torn dust seal letting dirt in Split dust boot Replace dust and oil seals
Bent tube Tube not straight; legs stiff Workshop
Bottom bolt washer or cap O-ring Oil from bottom or top Workshop

Reference values (K-Light 125)

Item Value Source
Fork oil seal size 37 x 50 x 11 mm K-Light 125 manual, PDF p. 151
Fork oil per leg 285 ± 2 ml, grade 46# K-Light 125 manual, PDF p. 156

Related problems

Sources
  • K-Light 125 manual, PDF pages 70, 151
  • MAVCC Motorcycle Mechanic, PDF pages 487, 497

Values marked K-Light 125 are for that reference bike. Use your own bike's manual for its values. Text CC BY-SA 4.0, Transitions Lab.