Replace the clutch cable

Home mechanic (basic tools) · Time: 30 to 60 min (estimate)

A clutch cable wears where it bends and where the end fittings (nipples) sit. A frayed, kinked or rusty cable makes the lever heavy and can snap without warning, leaving you unable to stop the engine from driving the wheel. Replace it at the first broken strand. The job is the same on most cable-clutch bikes; only the routing and the engine end differ.

Safety

• Engine off and cool. The cable often runs near the exhaust.
• If the cable has already snapped on the road, push the bike out of traffic. Do not try to ride home by changing gear without the clutch.
• Keep the new cable away from hot parts, sharp edges and the steering stops.

You need

• A new cable that matches the old one: same length, same nipple shapes at both ends, same adjuster type. Take the old cable or the bike model to the shop.
• Spanners for the adjuster locknuts, pliers, new cable ties.
• Cable lubricant and a little grease for the nipples. Some cables have a plastic liner and need no oil; the packet will say.

Steps

1. Note or photograph the route of the old cable: which side of the frame, through which guides and ties.
2. Lay the new cable along the old one, through the same guides, before you remove anything. This is the easiest way to get the route right.
3. Slacken the locknuts and screw both adjusters fully in to give maximum slack.
4. At the lever, line up the slots in the adjuster, the locknut and the lever bracket. Pull the outer cable out of the bracket, then free the nipple from the lever.
5. At the engine end, unhook the nipple from the release arm and pull the outer cable out of its bracket. On some engines a small cover must come off first.
6. Remove the old cable. Check the lever pivot and the release arm. Clean and grease the lever pivot if it is dry (Service lever pivots).
7. Lubricate the new cable if it is not a lined type, and put a smear of grease on both nipples.
8. Fit the engine end first, then the lever end.
9. If the lever has a clutch switch (part of the start safety system), make sure the switch plunger and plug are back in place.
10. Fit new cable ties loosely so the cable can move a little. Do not pinch it.
11. Set the free play: Adjust clutch lever free play. K-Light 125: 10 to 15 mm.

Check your work

• The lever is light and smooth and returns fully.
• Free play does not change as you turn the handlebar from lock to lock, and turning the bars does not pull on the throttle or other cables.
• The engine starts as usual. If your bike needs the clutch pulled to start in gear, check that this still works (Test the side stand, clutch and neutral switches).
• Pull away and change through all gears: no slip, no creep.

If it did not fix the problem

• Lever still heavy with a new cable: the release arm or lifter inside the engine may be stiff or its bearing worn; see Clutch lever is very heavy.
• New cable snaps or frays quickly: check routing for sharp bends and check the lever nipple seat for burrs.
• Free play keeps growing: Clutch slips and Inspect and replace clutch plates and springs.

Reference values (K-Light 125)